Glaciers

20th March started with a scenic coastal drive from Greymouth (Grey by name, grey by nature) to Franz Josef. On the way we were confronted once again by the surprising nature of the railway in New Zealand. Railway lines seem to run parallel to main roads almost everywhere, but you seldom see trains. New Zealanders do not appear to travel by train as passengers, and freight seems almost non-existent. This is probably just as well, since we came across two examples where it is difficult to see how a major disaster could be avoided if a train came along. First of all we crossed a single-lane bridge over a river which also carried the railway tracks, and then a roundabout with the tracks running straight through the middle of it (see picture).

We got to Franz Josef in time for some lunch, and then Peter caught Flight 303 to the glaciers. Peter had never before been on a helicopter, and was like a small schoolboy with a new toy. Even better, he paid for a short flight, but got upgraded to the full monty covering both the Franz Josef and the Fox Glaciers. And the weather was superb; bright sunshine all the way. We flew up the valley of the Franz Josef Glacier, and landed on the snowfield over the mountain at the origin of the Fox Glacier. We had about 10 minutes on the ice, with wonderful views of Mount Tasman and Mount Cook, and then flew down the Fox Glacier and back to Franz Josef Village. Great fun.

We then drove as far as we could towards the Franz Josef Glacier, and walked up the valley as close to the terminal face of the glacier as is allowed. Not a good idea to allow one’s Congenital Disobedience Syndrome to get the upper hand here; quite recently two tourists walked right up to the face of the glacier, and were squashed flat when the face collapsed on top of them. Once again, the weather is being very kind to us: warm and sunny.

For some days the sandflies have been bothering us. You can’t see them; you can’t hear them; you can’t feel them landing on you. But all of a sudden you start to scratch, and you know you’ve been bitten. See the picture of a commercial poster that appears in all the campsites, with useful advice such as: “Purchase a bottle of good quality whisky. Rub liberally on arms and legs.” and “Sand fly bites soon fade. Memories of spectacular New Zealand stay forever.” Apparently the sandflies get worse the further south you go. Will we survive this entomological onslaught?

We’ve included a photo of the Top 10 Campsite in Franz Josef to show you the sort of place we have been staying at ever since we arrived in New Zealand. On the first day we bought a membership card that gives us a 10% reduction at these sites, and ever since we have been going from one Top 10 campsite to another. Another astute investment, like the umbrella in rainy Oz.

On 21st March we went to see the next glacier along the coast: the Fox Glacier. It’s the autumnal equinox, and sunrise almost certainly has great mystical significance on this special day. At least it would have, if only the sun would condescend to put in an appearance. A grey and overcast day. No Factor 30 required; let’s be thankful for small mercies. But we managed to get in two walks. The first one was around lake Matheson, which promised “improbably photogenic views of Mount Tasman and Mount Cook”.  And indeed the postcards we had seen were stunning. However, the two Mounts were swathed in cloud, and all photography might as well have been in black and white. (See pics.) Our second walk was up the river valley to the base of the Fox Glacier. An easier walk than Franz Josef, and we were allowed closer to the glacier terminal. Quite spectacular, but the lack of sun seriously compromised the photography.

We have been astounded by how close the glaciers come to the sea; almost down to sea level, at a latitude similar to the European Alps, where glaciers peter out thousands of metres above sea level. This, we are told, is due to the very heavy annual precipitation over the Southern Alps, and the steepness of the valleys running down to the sea. We, however, believe that it’s all part of a conspiracy to get tourists like us to come to New Zealand and Spend our Kids’ Inheritance (Skiing as it’s known). Well done, the Kiwis.