Lakes and Fiords
Over the last few days we have driven through the most spectacular scenery that we have ever seen. Just mile after mile of almost unimaginably beautiful mountains and valleys, rivers and lakes. And all of this wonderland enhanced by bright sun and blue skies. We are still being very lucky with the weather.
On the first day we drove south from the glaciers down the west coast, and then inland across the Haast Pass to Wanaka. The road travels along Lake Wanaka at the north, crosses over to Lake Hawea, and then comes back to Lake Wanaka at the southern end. They are known as the Twin Lakes. We have selected a few photos we took along the way to try and give an idea of the scenery. We had a long walk around the lake, and then ate the best meal we have had so far in New Zealand at a sort of pseudo-Greek restaurant.
The following day we drove to Queenstown (“Global Adventure Capital”), and went up the cable car, which they call the Skyline Gondola. The views from the top are quite spectacular. Peter did a 47 metre bungy jump (The Ledge) and nearly frightened himself to death. The ticket entitled Peter to jump as many times as he wanted, but, under the circumstances, he decided that honour would be satisfied by a single jump. Michèle flatly refused to watch the performance; just Peter showing off again. We had a walk around the mountain. Peter was still a little shaky, and Michèle reminded him that she had told him that a bungy jump was not such a good idea. Peter tried hard to believe her. Over-65s jump free; Peter may be back in 7 years’ time.
In the evening we ate a Fergburger, reputed to be New Zealand’s best burgers. The restaurant is a haunt of backpackers boasting about their recent escapades, to the accompaniment of frightful computer-generated beat music. We took our burgers away and ate them at the campsite with a bottle of good wine. Yum yum!
It’s getting colder, and Michèle has taken to wearing socks with her sandals. Apparently this is what all good English tourists are supposed to do when they are abroad.
The following day we drove to Te Anau, rather shakily, because Peter had not yet fully recovered from the bungy jump. Te Anau as a town is not much to write home about, but it does have a lovely lake, and is the focal point for trips to the fiords. (Before anyone criticises our spelling, we are aware that the word “fjord” should be spelled with a j, but no-one has yet told the Kiwis.)
In the evening we went on a cruise across the lake to the Te Anau Glowworm Caves. Once inside the cave, there’s a 200 metre walk along an underground stream, sometimes bent double as the cave roof is very low. Then we all got in a small boat which the guide propelled by pulling on a rope fixed to the roof, and we spent about 15 minutes in caves which are pitch dark except for the light from the glowworms, rather like greenish stars in a clear night sky. A magical sight, but slightly unnerving due to claustrophobia. We held hands in the dark…
Did you know? Glowworms dangle sticky silk fishing lines to entrap other insects attracted by their lights. But of course the most important thing to know about glowworms is that they produce the light from their bums.
The cruise back across the lake produced some good sunset photography. Once again the sun has been shining all day.
The next day we were up with the sparrow for a tour to Milford Sound. It’s a two hour bus drive through wonderful scenery. We saw Keas, the New Zealand alpine parrots that destroy anything they find, particularly the rubber parts of cars such as windscreen wipers and door seals.
The cruise on Milford Sound is generally considered to be a highlight of any visit to New Zealand. It is undoubtedly very beautiful, but we were perhaps expecting too much, and also caught it on the wrong day. For once the sky was overcast, everything was grey, and low cloud hid the mountain ranges. In addition, we did not see the mass of waterfalls that usually pour down the sides of the fiord because there has been little or no rain for the last few weeks. The barbecue on board was pretty horrible, and the guide lacking in enthusiasm. But we did see dolphins and New Zealand fur seals, and the two permanent waterfalls were spectacular. We did enjoy the day, even though we were not left as awestruck as we had expected to be.
Are we perhaps becoming a bit blasé about beautiful scenery? We have spent much of the last three weeks seeing sights we have never seen elsewhere, and being overwhelmed by the beauty of the countryside. After a bit scenery-fatigue sets in.
Tomorrow we will be off to see another mountain, another lake, another river, and all will be stunning. What a bummer.